Basic Care for Different Skin Types

Normal skin basics

The more normal your skin is, the less basic maintenance it needs. Unfortunately, perfectly normal skin is almost as rare as perfect health. Most people have some elements of dryness, oiliness, acne, seborrhea or other irregularities. If your skin is normal, your basic routine can be very simple.

• Cleanse twice a day with a soap-free cleanser. Avoid cleansers and toners with alcohol, soaps or harsh detergents.

• After cleansing apply oil-free or low-oil/non-greasy moisturizer while the skin is still damp. This step is optional. Not everyone with normal skin necessarily benefits from moisturizing. You have to weight the negatives of applying unnecessary chemicals versus the possibility that skipping the moisturizer after cleansing may contribute to your developing dry skin some day.

• Use sunscreen whenever sun exposure is expected.

• Optionally, use a moisturizing or exfoliating mask once a week.

Oily skin basics

Oily skin produces excessive amounts of sebum, a lipid-rich protective substance. A good thing about oily skin is that it is usually well-moisturized due to its own protective oil. The downside is that it may look shiny or dirty and tends to develop large pores and be prone to acne.

Oily skin routines usually include the following recommendations:

• Wash your skin twice a day with a cleanser containing salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid that reduces sebum production.

• If you skin is extremely oily (e.g. oily even after basic cleansing), you can follow with alcohol-based toner with salicylic acid. Most people should avoid alcohol-based cleansers and toners due to the drying effect of alcohol. However, for extreme cases of oily skin, it may just do the trick.

• Generally, people with oily skin shouldn't moisturize. If you feel you have to, apply nonocclusive, noncomedogenic, oil-free moisturizer after cleansing.

• Use oil-free, noncomedogenic sunscreen whenever sun exposure is expected.

• If the above steps are insufficient and you are still producing too much oil, try treatments that reduce sebum production. They include topical vitamin A creams (retinol, retinal or retinyl palmitate), sulfur creams, azeleic acid and retinoids (tretinoin, tazarotene, adapalene). Retinoids and high-strength sulfur creams require a prescription. If your oil problem is so bad that you are considering prescription treatments, you should probably see a dermatologist anyway.

• Some people with oily skin may benefit from a clay/mud mask once a week.

Combination skin basics

Combination skin means what you would think it does: the skin with areas of dryness and oiliness. Typically, people with combination skin have oily T-zone (forehead and nose area) and dry cheeks. What you may not know is that combination skin is often a manifestation of the skin condition called seborrhea and its cousins, seborrheic eczema and seborrheic dermatitis. The main manifestation of seborrhea is overproduction of oil on the face and scalp. Many seborrhea patients also have yeast overgrowth, especially on the scalp and eyebrow areas, which causes irritation, itching, dandruff and other problems. You may want to see a dermatologist to determine whether you have seborrhea or related conditions.

Combination skin routines usually include the following recommendations:

• Treat oily and dry areas differently. Treat your scalp as well.

• Wash your skin with a mild cleanser twice daily. Get a cleanser free of soap, harsh detergents or alcohol, ideally containing an oil production reducing agent, such as salicylic acid.

• Switch to anti-dandruff shampoos (e.g. pyrithione zinc or selenium sulfide shampoos) and/or anti-yeast shampoos (e.g. ketoconazole shampoo). Use every other day until dandruff and other symptoms are under control; use twice a week after that.

• After washing apply oil-free moisturizer (you can moisturize dry areas only). You can also apply oil-free moisturizer to dry areas throughout the day as needed.

• Use oil-free sunscreen whenever sun exposure is expected.

• Some people with combination skin may benefit from a combination of two masks used once a week. A clay mask is applied to the oily area and a moisturizing mask - to the dry areas.

Dry skin basics

Whereas very little rigorous research has been conducted on the relationship between skin dryness and premature skin aging, most experts agree that chronically dry skin is not a good thing. Dry skin can be caused by such varied factors as dry climate, menopausal decrease in estrogen levels, acne treatments (such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids) and others. Sometimes the cause can be found and easily eliminated. At other times, it cannot.

Dry skin routines usually include the following recommendations:

• Cleanse your skin once or twice a day with a moisturizing, soap-free cleanser. Never use cleansers or toners with alcohol, soaps or harsh detergents.

• After cleansing apply moisturizer while skin is still damp to help seal moisture.

• It is best to use non-greasy moisturizers. However, as opposed to oily and normal skin types, dry skin moisturizers may contain some oil or similar hydrophobic emollients.

• Many experts argue that it is best to use moisturizers whose ingredients are identical or similar to the skin's natural moisturizing agents, such as sodium PCA and hyaluronic acid

• If your skin becomes dry again soon after moisturizing, you may need a long-lasting moisturizer. Certain ingredients make moisturizers last longer. For example, colloidal oatmeal (used in some commercial moisturizers) is very effective in holding moisture for many hours. Also, the chemicals called siloxanes can create a watertight film on top of the skin and thus lock in moisture. The most widely used siloxanes in skin care are dimethicone and cyclomethicone. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are chemically relatively inert and are believed to be generally safe and noncomedogenic.

• Some people with dry skin may benefit from a moisturizing mask once a week.

• Use sunscreen whenever sun exposure is expected.

• Drink plenty of water. Eight glasses a day is generally recommended.

• Avoid exposure to harsh detergents, whether directly or via clothing washed in harsh detergents. Sometimes one can improve dry skin by simply abandoning the use of shower gels and/or changing the brand of laundry detergent.

Sensitive skin basics

Many people have reaction to potential irritants, such as harsh detergents, alcohol, acidic skin care products, makeup removers and the like. This does not necessarily mean their skin is truly sensitive. Reactions to known potential irritants are considered to be within the range of normal. True skin sensitivity (i.e. hypersensitivity) is relatively uncommon. Hypersensitive skin would often react not only to potential irritants, but also to generally nonirritating substances as well as heat, cold, wind and so forth. If you think you have hypersensitive skin, see a dermatologist to rule out skin condition with similarities to genuine hypersensitivity (e.g. rosacea or eczema). Such conditions may require specialized treatment.

Sensitive skin routines usually include the following recommendations:

• Use products that contain as few preservatives, fragrances, colorings and other redundant ingredients as possible.

• Avoid toners. Most toners contain alcohol and/or other irritants.

• Avoid (or at least be very careful with) acidic and other potentially irritating skin care, such as alpha hydroxy products or retinoids.

• Avoid harsh detergents, both in your shower and in your laundry.

• Minimize the use of makeup and avoid makeup removers. If you must use makeup, use hypoallegenic, easly-to-remove kinds. You can use a dab of olive or mineral oil to help dissolve and remove the makeup.

• After cleansing apply hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic moisturizer. Do it while skin is still damp to help seal the moisture.

• Clean your skin once or twice a day with alcohol-free, soap-free, moisturizing cleanser.

• Use hypoallergenic oil-free sunscreen whenever sun exposure is expected.