Skin Care for Your Age Group

Adjusting your skin care to fit your age

How to optimize your skin care to fit your age? This issue raises both much interest and much confusion. Some experts declare that the need to adapt a skin care routine to fit a particular age is marginal because the essential physiology of the skin does not change all that much. Others assert that your skin care routine should account for every hormonal change in the body, especially those associated with aging.

The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. The core mechanisms of skin physiology are the same at any age. Yet, many things do change, including metabolic rate, cell turnover rate, hormonal levels, accumulation of damaged cells and molecular garbage, prevalence of inflammation and so forth. Taking those into account is likely to provide extra benefits.

Biological vs. chronological age

The age of your skin should be judged based on biological factors rather than simply your date of birth. Biological and chronological age are rarely very far apart but they are not the same. The rate of aging varies among people due to genetic and lifestyle differences. The variation in the rate of skin aging is particularly high (compared to other tissues) because the skin is more exposed to the environment. When optimizing your skin care, you can use your chronological age as a starting point but you should also take into account biological factors that may have affected your rate of aging. For example, if you are in your twenties but your skin has suffered a lot of sun damage, you may benefit from the anti-wrinkle treatments (e.g. tretinoin a.k.a. Retin A) that are otherwise best used later in life. If you are undergoing early menopause in your late thirties, you might benefit from topical estrogens and/or progesterone even though such treatment are typically contemplated in late forties.

You need the basics at any age

A number of basic practices are essential for optimal skin care at any age. Skipping them is likely to undermine the rest of your routine. Make sure you protect your skin from avoidable damage, particularly sun damage. Establish a sensible basic daily routine matching your skin type. Then determine whether you need any age-specific steps (see below).

Skin care in your twenties

At any age, good skincare starts with protecting your skin from avoidable damage, particularly sun damage, and establishing a sensible basic daily routine matching your skin type. You can further optimize it by taking into account the physiology of early adulthood.

In your twenties, the rate of cell turnover in the outer skin layers is still high. As a result, most 20+ year-olds do not need to exfoliate and may actually make things worse if exfoliating too much. If you feel the need to exfoliate, a mild mechanical exfoliation, such as table sugar scrub, may be optimal. Some acne sufferers see reduction in breakouts when using certain mild chemical exfoliating agents, particularly beta-hydroxy and alpha-hydroxy acids. In that case, mild chemical exfoliation would make sense.

Dry skin is uncommon in the twenties because hormone levels are high and sebaceous glands are still largely undamaged. There is usually no need to moisturize frequently. If you have oily skin you may not need to moisturize at all. In any case, unless you happen to have dry skin, stick to oil-free and low oil moisturizers. On the other hand, your skin's "oil resources" are not unlimited despite what you may have thought in your teens. You should avoid stripping away too much of the oil your skin naturally produces. Therefore, it is best to avoid harsh soaps, alcohol-based toners, and other drying agents.

A significant proportion of 20+ year-olds have some degree of acne albeit most cases are mild. It is best to use oil-free or low-oil, noncomedogenic skin care products. If that is not enough, and your acne needs to be actively treated, try to avoid excessively harsh acne treatment you may have used in your teens. See our article on the effects of acne treatments on skin aging.

In most cases, the 20s is not yet time for aggressive wrinkle treatments that modify skin physiology. It is too early to tinker with cell growth rate or aggressively stimulate collagen synthesis. Therefore, treatments like retinoids (e.g. tretinoin a.k.a. Retin A), hormones, growth factors and the like are generally inappropriate. On the other hand, extra steps to prevent future wrinkles may pay off later in life. You can supplement your basic skin care routine with skin care formulas containing protective ingredients, such as antioxidants and/or anti-inflammatories. Some potentially useful ones include green tea extract, pomegranate extract, vitamin E (mixed tocopherols and tocotrienols), lycopene, and others.

Skin care in your thirties

At any age, good skincare starts with protecting your skin from avoidable damage, particularly sun damage, and establishing a sensible basic daily routine matching your skin type. You can further optimize it by taking into account the physiology of the forth decade of life.

Thirties is the time when physiological changes characteristic of aging begin to manifest. The levels of many hormones and growth factors begin to decline (some faster than others) metabolism and cell turnover rate begin to slow down. Your skin may have accumulated sufficient amount of damage to have some degree of visible roughness, fine lines and discolorations. It is the time to make your skin care more comprehensive.

Ensure hydration
Dryness is another problem that tends to emerge in the thirties. Even though proper hydration alone is insufficient for optimal anti-aging routine, it is needed for all other steps to work properly. See our article on moisturizing; also see skin hydration tips contributed by our visitors.

Exfoliate - if you need to
In the thirties, your epidermis (the outer skin layer) would tend to become drier and thicker than in your teens or twenties because its cells (keratinocytes) are not replaced as quickly as before. As a result, your skin may look dull and have drier, more uneven texture. If you notice these changes, periodic exfoliation may help restore a more youthful feel by removing the excess of dead keratinocytes from your skin's surface. However, it is important not to exfoliate too much. If you exfoliate to the point of chronic skin irritation, you may end up accelerating the aging of your skin. You could start with mild mechanical exfoliating agents (such as table sugar scrub); if those are insufficient and your skin still looks dull, try mild chemical exfoliants, such as alpha and beta-hydroxy acids. (See also exfoliation tips contributed by our visitors.)

Treat emerging wrinkles and fine lines
Many 30+ year-olds start noticing fine lines and emerging wrinkles. This may be a good time to start using skin care agents shown to have wrinkle reducing effects. The agents backed by the most evidence are retinoids (e.g. tretinoin a.k.a. Retin A) and vitamin C family (L-ascorbic acid and some of its derivatives). Additional agents that might help but are far less proven include lipoic acid, copper peptides, and a few others. Each has it pros and cons and may be right for some people but not for others. See our topical treatments section for further details.

Tackle deeper problems if needed
Some 30+ year-olds develop problems beyond dull skin, dryness, roughness or fine lines. The most common of such bigger problems is moderate motion wrinkles. These are relatively pronounced wrinkles that develop in the area where facial movements result in skin folding. Over the years, repeated skin folding leads to local degradation of the dermis manifesting as a wrinkle. Motion wrinkles can be dramatically improved by eliminating its cause, the folding movement of the skin. The most reliable way to achieve that is botulinum toxin (Botox) injections. In most cases, Botox dramatically improves horizontal forehead creases, scowl lines between eyebrows, crow's feet, and vertical wrinkles of your upper lip. Its usefulness for nasolabial folds (smile lines) is less clear. Botox is ineffective for wrinkles not caused by facial movement.

Skin care in your forties and fifties

At any age, good skincare starts with protecting your skin from avoidable damage, particularly sun damage, and establishing a sensible basic daily routine matching your skin type. However, in the fourth and fifth decades of life your physiology (especially if you are a woman) changes dramatically. If you are to retain as youthful a look as possible, your skin care will have to change as well.

After 40 skin faces more challenges with fewer resources

The fourth and fifth decades of life are characterized by a marked decline in the levels of various hormones and growth factors. Cell damage has accumulated in many tissues; the skin is one of the most affected. As a result, the rate at which the skin renews and repairs itself becomes much slower.

Women in their 40s and 50s experience particularly dramatic hormonal changes because they either approach or undergo the menopause, which causes a dramatic decline in the hormones produce by the ovaries: estrogens and progesterone. The loss of these hormones causes a decline in the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of skin matrix, reduces the production of sebum (skin oil) and thus leads to skin thinning, dryness and other negative changes. Notably, the effects of declining testosterone in men are somewhat similar but not as marked or abrupt.

Another problems of older skin is excessive inflammation. While usually not visible to the naked eye, age-related skin inflammation manifests in higher levels inflammatory mediators (cytokines, prostaglandins and others) and abnormal activity of certain immune system cells. Inflammation increases the production of harmful free radicals and leads to increased cell damage, degradation of skin matrix and other problems.

All of the above results in a number of visible changes:

• Thickening and drying up of the outer layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) leading to the dull, parched appearance.

• Thinning and weakening of the skin's middle layer (dermis), which is the layer responsible for the skin's strength, firmness and resilience. This leads to the accelerated development of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Progression and deepening of motion wrinkles and creases. Motion wrinkles are those developing in the area where facial movements result in skin folding. Weakened dermis cannot cope with continuous folding of the skin, which leads to a rapid deepening of motion wrinkles.

• Development of uneven pigmentation, discolorations, broken capillaries, redness and other blemishes associated with skin aging.

• Loss of subcutaneous fat and slackening of facial muscles, both of which contribute to tired, haggard look and facial sag.

While aging remains inevitable, you don't have to passively accept all those negative changes in your appearance. Some can be reversed, while others kept under control or slowed down.

What you can do to fight back

The scope of this article is too narrow to cover all possible treatments for the problems common in 40-50 year old skin. Below we list the key skin care steps/treatments potentially useful after forty. (For further information, browse the rest of our site.)

Ensure hydration
Skin dryness is exceedingly common after 40. Even though proper hydration alone is insufficient for optimal anti-aging routine, it is needed for all other steps to work properly. See our article on moisturizing; also see skin hydration tips contributed by our visitors.

Treat wrinkles and fine lines
Wrinkles and fine lines and common after 40. A few agents have been shown in published research to reduce existing wrinkles and fine lines and prevent or slow down the emergence of the new ones. The agents backed by the most evidence are retinoids (e.g. tretinoin a.k.a. Retin A) and vitamin C family (L-ascorbic acid and some of its derivatives). Additional agents that might help but are far less proven include lipoic acid, copper peptides, and a few others. Each has it pros and cons and may be right for some people but not for others. See our topical treatments section for further details.

Topical estrogens and progesterone
Research shows that replenishing skin levels of the sex hormones, particularly estrogens and progesterone, via topical application improves skin hydration, reduces wrinkles, increase epidermal renewal rates and produces other beneficial effect in women near or past menopause. However, since small amounts of topical estrogens are absorbed into the bloodstream, such treatment should be undertaken only under the care and with approval of your physician. Do not attempt this without medical supervision. See our topical treatments section for further details.

Exfoliate - if you need to
In the forties, your epidermis (the outer skin layer) is likely to become considerably drier and thicker because its cells (keratinocytes) are not replaced as quickly as before. As a result, your skin may look dull and have dry, uneven texture. If you notice these changes, periodic exfoliation may help restore a more youthful feel by removing the excess of dead keratinocytes from your skin's surface. However, it is important not to exfoliate too much. If you exfoliate to the point of chronic skin irritation, you may end up accelerating the aging of your skin. You could start with mild mechanical exfoliating agents (such as table sugar scrub); if those are insufficient and your skin still looks dull, try mild chemical exfoliants, such as alpha and beta-hydroxy acids. (See also exfoliation tips contributed by our visitors.)

Reduce skin matrix degradation by inhibiting MMP
One of the reasons skin matrix degrades more quickly as we age is the increase in the activity of the so-called matrix metalloproteinases (MMP). While research into the role of MMP in skin aging is relatively new, taking steps to inhibit their activity might help. See our article on MMP inhibition.

Treat pigmentation problems
Skin pigmentation problems, such as blotchiness and age spots, are exceedingly common after 40. Most are caused by abnormal (usually increased) production of the skin pigment melanin. Oftentimes this problem can be improved by topical skin lightening agents, most of which inhibit the synthesis of melanin. See our article on the treatment of pigmentation problems.

Motion wrinkles are helped by botulinum toxin (Botox) Motion wrinkles relatively pronounced wrinkles that develop in the area where facial movements result in skin folding. They are very common after 40 and tend to resist treatment with topical anti-wrinkles agents or even such procedures as laser resurfacing and chemical peels. However, motion wrinkles usually respond surprisingly well to the injections of botulinum toxin (Botox). The main reason is that Botox reduces or eliminates their cause, i.e. the movement that crumples up the skin. In most cases, Botox dramatically improves horizontal forehead creases, scowl lines between eyebrows, crow's feet, and vertical wrinkles of your upper lip. Its usefulness for nasolabial folds a.k.a. smile lines is less clear (smile lines are often treated by dermal fillers). Botox is ineffective for wrinkles not caused by facial movement. (See our article on Botox).

Stubborn problems may yield to second line treatments/procedures
Many problems of the 40-50+ year-old skin may be stubborn enough to resist topical agents and other simple self-administered treatments. At that time, you should consider second-line treatments/procedures usually performed by medical professionals. It is critical to pick the right treatment for a particular problem and find the right doctor to administer it. Depending on the problem to be corrected, such second-line treatments may include lasers, dermal fillers, chemical peels, botulinum toxin (Botox) injections and others. Many treatments are non-invasive or minimally invasive while others involve incisions or other types of open wounds.